Your First E-Bike Explained: A Mentor's Guide to Watts, Volts, and Riding Modes

Welcome to the electric bike club! It’s an exciting place to be. You’ve either just gotten your first e-bike or you’re deep in research, and you’re seeing a lot of numbers: 750W Peak, 500W Sustained, 48V, 374.4Wh, 21-Speed, 5 PAS Modes…

It can feel overwhelming, like you need an engineering degree just to go for a ride.

As your guide, I’m here to tell you: you don’t.

These numbers aren’t as complicated as they look. They’re just a language to describe how your bike will feel and perform. My goal is to translate that language for you. We’ll use a popular all-terrain model, the Funhang EB-M1, as our classroom example because its spec sheet has all the classic features you need to understand.

By the end of this guide, you’ll be able to look at any e-bike spec sheet and know exactly what it means for your ride.

Part 1: The “Engine” — What Do Watts (W) Really Mean?

The first thing everyone sees is the motor power, measured in watts (W). This is the “engine” of your e-bike. But there’s a crucial difference between the two numbers you often see.

Let’s use our example: The Funhang EB-M1 lists a 500W motor with 750W peak power.

This is the most common point of confusion, so let’s clear it up with a simple analogy.

• Sustained Power (500W): Think of this as your car’s engine cruising on the highway. This is the comfortable, efficient, and sustainable amount of power the motor can deliver for long periods without overheating. This 500W is your reliable, everyday workhorse.
• Peak Power (750W): This is your “passing gear.” It’s a temporary burst of maximum power the motor can provide for short periods. You use it when you need a serious boost, like starting from a dead stop on a steep hill or accelerating quickly.

Mentor’s Takeaway: When you’re shopping, the sustained (or “rated”) watts tell you about the bike’s everyday performance. The peak watts tell you about its climbing ability and acceleration. For an “all-terrain” bike, having that 750W peak power on tap is what gives you the confidence to tackle that intimidating hill.

Part 2: The “Fuel Tank” — Volts (V) vs. Watt-Hours (Wh)

If the motor is the engine, the battery is your fuel tank. This is where most people worry about “range anxiety.” Let’s demystify the two key battery numbers.

Our example bike, the EB-M1, has a 48V 374.4Wh battery.

Volts (V): The “Pressure” of the System

Think of Volts as the electrical “pressure” in the system, like the horsepower rating of an engine. A 48V system is a fantastic and common standard for e-bikes. It delivers power to that 500W motor more efficiently than an older 36V system. This means the components run cooler and can provide that “peak” power more readily. You don’t need to overthink this one: 48V is solid and capable.

Watt-Hours (Wh): The “Size” of Your Gas Tank

This is the single most important number for range.

Watt-Hours (Wh) measure the total amount of energy stored in your battery. If you have a 374.4Wh battery, it’s like having a 374.4-unit “gas tank.”

So, how does Funhang get a range of “25-50 miles” from this battery? This isn’t a trick; it’s entirely dependent on how you ride.

• 25-Mile Range: This is what you’d get in Throttle-Only Mode (which we’ll cover next), riding fast on hilly terrain. You’re asking the motor to do 100% of the work.
• 50-Mile Range: This is what you’d get in low Pedal-Assist Mode (PAS), on flat ground, doing most of the work yourself. The motor is just giving you a gentle “tailwind.”

Mentor’s Takeaway: When you see a range estimate, always look for the “Wh” number. A 374.4Wh battery is a great starting point, but a bike with a 700Wh battery will (all else being equal) have nearly double the range.

This EB-M1 also features a removable, IPX5 waterproof battery. This is incredibly practical. * Removable: You can park your bike and take the battery inside to charge, which is also a great anti-theft measure. * IPX5: This just means it’s protected from water jets (like rain or splashes). You shouldn’t submerge it, but you can ride in the rain without panic.

Part 3: The “Cockpit” — Mastering Your Ride

This is the most important part. You have power and fuel… but how do you use them? This is where new riders get lost, and it’s where the search queries about “LCD icons” and “throttle control” come from.

Your bike has two “engines”: the electric motor and you. The key to a great ride is learning how to make them work together.

The 5 “Smart” Modes Explained

The Funhang EB-M1, like many e-bikes, lists “5 Working Modes.” Let’s translate them from marketing-speak into practical use.

1. Pedal Mode (You are the engine): This is just a regular bike. Turn the LCD display off. It’s you, the pedals, and the 21-speed mechanical gears.
2. Pedal-Assist System (PAS) Mode (The Co-Pilot): This is the magic of an e-bike. As you pedal, a sensor tells the motor to help you. Most bikes, including this one, give you 5 levels of assistance, usually visible on your LCD.
   • PAS 1: A gentle “tailwind.” Perfect for maximizing range on a long, flat ride.
   • PAS 3: A “helpful partner.” This is the sweet spot for daily commuting. You’re still getting exercise, but hills feel flattened.
   • PAS 5: “Superhero Mode.” The motor gives you a powerful push with every pedal stroke. It uses the most battery but is thrilling and makes you feel bionic.
3. Throttle Mode (The “Scooter”): This mode gives you power without pedaling. You just push the throttle (usually a thumb lever on the left handlebar), and the bike goes.
   • Warning: This is the fastest way to drain your battery.
   • Pro Tip: Throttle is best used for short bursts, like getting started from a standstill at a traffic light so you’re not wobbly.
4. Cruise Mode (The “Autopilot”): The manual for the EB-M1 says you engage this by holding the “-” button. When you do, the bike will hold its current speed without you needing to pedal or hold the throttle. It’s great for long, flat, open roads.
5. Booster Mode (The “Walking Buddy”): This is a low-speed (around 3-4 mph) mode designed to help you push the bike. If you have to walk your bike up a steep ramp or a long driveway, this mode keeps you from having to push all 50+ pounds of it unassisted.

The 21-Speed “Manual” Gears

COMMON ROOKIE MISTAKE: New riders get their e-bike and completely forget about the mechanical gears (the 21-speed shifters on the handlebars).

Mentor’s Rule: Use your motor for power, but use your gears for efficiency.

Don’t make the motor do all the work! If you’re approaching a steep hill, do exactly what you’d do on a regular bike:
1. Shift to a low mechanical gear (so it’s easy to pedal).
2. Increase your PAS level to 4 or 5.

By doing this, you and the motor are working together. You’ll climb the hill faster, put less strain on the motor, and save your battery.

Part 4: The “Chassis” — Comfort and Control Features

The engine and fuel are key, but the rest of the bike is what makes it usable every day.

• Lockable Suspension Fork: This is another feature new riders often miss. That little lever on top of your front “shock absorber” is a switch.
  • On smooth pavement: Lock the suspension. This makes the fork rigid, so you don’t waste pedaling energy “bouncing.”
  • On bumpy trails: Unlock the suspension. This lets it absorb shocks, saving your hands and wrists and giving you a much smoother, more controlled ride.
• Adjustable Stem: This is a huge comfort feature. The stem is the part that connects your handlebars to the bike. An adjustable one (like the -30° to 30° on the EB-M1) lets you raise or lower the handlebars to find a perfect riding posture, whether you prefer an upright, casual ride or a more forward, athletic stance.
• Tires (26” x 1.95”): This is a classic “all-terrain” size. It’s wide enough to be stable and comfortable on gravel paths and light trails, but not so knobby that it feels slow on pavement.
• Fenders: You’ll thank these the first time you ride after it rains. They prevent that “skunk stripe” of mud and grime from spraying all up your back.

Your “Graduation”

You’re no longer a rookie. You can now look at a spec sheet and see beyond the jargon.

You know that 750W Peak means hill-climbing power. You know that 374.4Wh is the “size of your gas tank” and that your PAS level is the throttle that determines if you get 25 or 50 miles from it. And you know that your mechanical gears and lockable suspension are tools you can use to be a smarter, more efficient rider.

An e-bike isn’t just a product; it’s a tool for freedom. Now you know how to use it.