E-Bike Power Explained: Decoding 1000W Motors, 35MPH Speeds, and Class Limits

Welcome. If you’re starting your e-bike journey, you’ve probably hit the “wall of numbers.”

You see stats like 1000W, 750W, 48V, 16Ah, 35 MPH, and 80-mile range. It’s confusing, overwhelming, and, frankly, a bit misleading. How can one bike be a “1000W” motor while the specs also list “750W”? How can it claim 35 MPH when you hear e-bikes are limited to 20 MPH?

You’re right to be confused. The e-bike market is filled with technical jargon designed to sound impressive.

So, let’s clear the air. Today, we’re not “reviewing” a bike. We’re going to use a powerful, real-world example as our “classroom specimen” to tear down these numbers and understand what they actually mean for your ride.

Our case study is the PASELEC GS9, a full-suspension electric mountain bike that, according to its product data, boasts a 1000W peak motor, a 750W nominal rating, a massive 768Wh battery, and a claimed top speed of 35 MPH. It’s the perfect example to help us decode the three biggest mysteries in e-biking.

Mystery #1: The Power Puzzle (1000W Peak vs. 750W Nominal)

This is the most common point of confusion. Is the GS9 a 750W bike or a 1000W bike? The answer is: both.

This isn’t a trick. It’s the difference between “Peak Power” and “Nominal Power.” Understanding this is the first and most important step to becoming an informed e-bike rider.

• Nominal Power (Your “Marathon Pace”): This is the motor’s continuous, sustainable power output. In this case, it’s 750 watts. Think of this as the motor’s comfortable cruising speed, the power it can deliver for a long period without overheating. This 750W is what defines the bike’s core performance and, in many legal definitions, its “class.”
• Peak Power (Your “Sprinting Pace”): This is the absolute maximum power the motor can output in a short burst. Here, it’s 1000 watts. This “kick” is what you use for a few seconds to blast off from a standstill, conquer the crest of a steep hill, or get a quick burst of acceleration.

Why does this matter?

A bike advertised only by its 1000W peak power is misleading. It’s like a car claiming to be a 500-horsepower monster, but that power is only available for three seconds.

A high nominal power (750W) is a sign of a robust, capable motor. The high peak power (1000W) is what gives you that thrilling “grunt” when you demand it. The PASELEC GS9’s motor is a brushless hub motor, which means it uses magnets and electronics—rather than friction-based brushes—to operate. This design is quieter, more efficient, and lasts longer, which is critical when you’re pulling 1000 watts of peak power from it.

Mentor’s Takeaway: When you shop, always look for the nominal (or “rated”) power first. That’s your true baseline. A high peak power is a great bonus, but 750W nominal is the real muscle.

Mystery #2: The “Gas Tank” (48V, 16Ah, and 768Wh)

Next, let’s look at the battery. The specs are “48V 16Ah,” and the range is “up to 80 miles.” Again, one of these numbers is far more important than the other.

While Volts (V) and Amp-Hours (Ah) are important, the single best metric for an e-bike’s “gas tank” is Watt-Hours (Wh).

You calculate this by multiplying Volts by Amp-Hours.

48 Volts x 16 Amp-Hours = 768 Watt-Hours (Wh)

This 768Wh figure is the total amount of energy stored in the battery. This is the number that dictates your range.

Let’s put 768Wh in context: * A lightweight, entry-level commuter e-bike might have 350-500Wh. * A standard, all-around e-bike often sits at 500-625Wh. * At 768Wh, the PASELEC GS9 has a very large battery.

This large “gas tank” is essential to feed its powerful 750W/1000W motor. A small 500Wh battery on a motor this powerful would drain incredibly fast.

But What About That “80-Mile Range”?

Let’s be real. That 80-mile claim is achieved in a perfect lab: * Using the lowest Pedal Assist (PAS) level. * On perfectly flat ground. * With no wind. * With a very lightweight rider. * …and probably not even using the throttle.

If you use the throttle and ride at 35 MPH, you will not get 80 miles. You won’t even get close. As several user reviews in the [资料] note, a realistic range when using the bike’s power is more like 20 to 45 miles.

This isn’t a “con”; it’s just physics. More power (watts) = more energy consumption. That 768Wh battery (which is UL Certified for safety) is what makes a 20+ mile, high-power, off-road ride possible at all. The removable in-frame design is a premium feature, allowing you to charge the battery indoors.

Mentor’s Takeaway: Ignore the marketing “mileage.” The only number that matters is Watt-Hours (Wh). For a powerful bike like this, anything over 700Wh is excellent.

Mystery #3: The 35MPH Speed & The “Class” System

This is the big one. This is the single most confusing, and legally important, topic in the e-bike world.

You see “35 MPH Top Speed” and you see user searches like “paselec gs9 limited to 20mph.” This tells us people are confused about what they’re allowed to buy and ride.

Let’s break down the U.S. E-Bike Class System. Most states use this three-class model:

• Class 1: Pedal-assist only (no throttle). The motor assists you only when you pedal. Motor assistance cuts off at 20 MPH.
• Class 2: Throttle-assisted. Has a throttle that can power the bike without pedaling. Motor assistance cuts off at 20 MPH (for both throttle and pedal assist).
• Class 3: Pedal-assist only (no throttle). Motor assists only when you pedal. Motor assistance cuts off at 28 MPH.

…So, where does a bike like the PASELEC GS9 fit in? It has a throttle and a claimed top speed of 35 MPH.

The answer: It doesn’t fit.

This bike is sold as an “unlocked” or “off-road” e-bike. Out of the box, it may be limited to Class 2 speeds (20 MPH) to be legally compliant for shipping. However, the manufacturer and product page make it clear this bike can be “unlocked” to reach 35 MPH.

This is the most critical part of this article:
An e-bike that can go 35 MPH with a throttle is not a “Class 1, 2, or 3” e-bike. In the eyes of the law, it is often considered an “unregulated electric bicycle” or, in some states, a “moped” or “motor vehicle.”

This means you cannot legally ride it on most bike paths, sidewalks, or public trails that are designated for Class 1-3 e-bikes. These “unlocked” bikes are intended for private land use or off-road trails where motorized vehicles are permitted.

This isn’t a “good” or “bad” thing. It’s a “power and responsibility” thing. The GS9 has the power of a 1000W motor to hit high speeds, but it comes with the responsibility for you, the rider, to know where you can and cannot use it.

The Unsung Hero: Why Brakes and Brains Matter

When you have a 64-pound bike with a 768Wh battery and a 1000W motor pushing you to 35 MPH, two things become non-negotiable: stopping power and system stability.

1. The Brakes (Your Stopping Power)

The GS9 uses dual hydraulic disc brakes. This isn’t a “nice to have”; it’s a necessity.

• Mechanical brakes (like on a 10-speed) use a steel cable. They’re cheap but can stretch, get gunked up, and require a strong grip.
• Hydraulic brakes use a sealed line of fluid. Based on Pascal’s Principle, they transfer the force from your fingers immensely more efficiently. You get massive, consistent stopping power with a light, one-finger pull. On a heavy, fast e-bike, hydraulic brakes are the only safe option.

2. The Controller (The “Brain”)

We’ve talked muscle (motor) and heart (battery). But what’s the brain? It’s the e-bike controller.

This small, hidden box is the most stressed component on the bike. It’s responsible for taking your throttle command, pulling just the right amount of massive power from the 48V battery, and feeding it to the 1000W motor—all without exploding.

On high-power, budget-friendly bikes, the controller is often the first point of failure. In the [资料], one 1-star review from user “Itzallan” is a perfect, sad example: “the controller was faulty.” He describes the motor cutting out—a classic symptom of a controller overheating or failing.

This is the trade-off. To get 1000W of power at this price point, you are pushing the components to their limit.

The Final Verdict: Who Is This Bike Really For?

Now that we’ve decoded the specs, we can see the full picture.

The PASELEC GS9 is not a simple commuter bike. It is a powerful, “unlocked,” all-terrain e-bike built for the enthusiast. The full-suspension frame, powerful 750W nominal motor, and hydraulic brakes are built for trails, not just bike paths.

• This bike is for you if: You want maximum power for off-road trails. You are comfortable with the legal responsibility of an “unlocked” bike. You want a “gas tank” (768Wh) big enough for long, rugged adventures.
• This bike is NOT for you if: You just want a simple, legal Class 2 e-bike for riding on city bike paths. If you are intimidated by the tech and the legal gray areas, a simpler 500W, 20-MPH e-bike is a better choice.

By understanding the science behind the numbers—nominal vs. peak, watt-hours over miles, and the all-important class system—you can now look at any e-bike and know exactly what you’re getting.